Calderdale Way Walks
An Old Man's Tale
Todmorden to Heptonstall
(7½ miles)
Back to Tod on the train to pick up the trail to Heptonstall. We arrived late with
delays at Bradford train station where staff blocked my rush to catch the departing
train. No doubt there was an obstruction in the alimentary canal.
Last night we had torrential rain, thunder and lightning. Already it has rained
on St Swithen’s Day; so far the old maxim is bearing fruition. Will we see squelchy
quicksands of mud and fallen timber?
The Manchester train costs only 50p each way to Todmorden. The condemns will remove
our subsidy and communal enterprise. The 9.30 window should not be breached. It
is shameful to strive for free transport and deprive the company of their profit.
Our bus slowed by the gaggle of pensioners shuffling in disarray as they compare
time-pieces. They could be more sprightly. I was late for my train. There was an
opportunity for a toilet. An elderly gentleman fixed his gaze on my member as we
urinated in line. At last the sun popped out.
Coming out of Todmorden station turn left to return to Burnley Road. Proceed to
Centre Vale Park with the open air market and bus station on your right. Keep going
past Todmorden cricket ground and enter the park. At the information board you can
read about John Fielden who married Ruth a weaver at the family factory. She discovered
the transition difficult and died an alcoholic at the age of 50. Another famous
son was William Holt, radio personality, war correspondent, author and the only
communist elected to the town council. At the age of 66 he navigated the European
Tour on his rag and bone horse Trigger. An inspiration to us all but he seemed to
have little left for investment in his family. GP Harold Shipman began his murderous
campaign here.
Continue through Centre Vale Park stopping to admire the impressive bandstand. Return
to Burnley Road passing Ewood Lane, the Sports Centre and the playing fields on
the left. Immediately before the bridge turn right where the footpath sign indicates
the Calderdale Way. With the beck on your left carry on through a large railway
arch to Stanally Farm. I have forgotten my Dazer for dogs standing guard.
After the farm proceed straight along the track, ignoring the turn to the right.
Sweat oozing as labour steeply uphill, legs a little wobbly. I adopt the old fell
race technique pressing hard down on thighs to share the load. As you reach the
fringes of open moorland the direction post confirms you remain on track to Rake
Hey farm. We are now way above Todmorden in the valley below. After the farm bear
left along the walled trail until you come to the crossways junction. Turn right
onto an old packhorse road going through three gates. What a haul up here where
you seem on a higher plain than any surrounding contours. U.F.O’s have been spotted
from this viewing platform. The beauty of Tod and its environs for all to see.
Passing Whirlow Stones proceed along causey stones of gritstone boulders across
Whirlow Common. Passed by a couple of joggers-how do they get up here? “It’s a wonderful
view from here”. At the top there’s evidence of localised flooding and bog holes
to skirt. Continue through a walled path passing East Whirlow Farm and through the
gate. After 30 metres turn right down the track following the blue direction arrow
for Todmorden Centenary Walk. Carry on downhill to the bridge across Wickenberry
Clough. At this junction you are enticed to choose the wrong path. Mistakenly I
followed the link path down the steep ascent to Meadow Bottom returning to the base
of the valley. Taking advice from fish and chip proprietors and wondering locals
I grudgingly recommenced the ascent once again. I expect natives to know the way.
I lost myself meandering across the moors visiting isolated farms off- piste. Eventually
I strayed back onto the Calderdale Way just before the Great Rock. Successfully
accomplished the route to Blackshaw Head. After much studied reflection I decided
to retrace my steps all the way back to Wickenberry Clough Bridge. It seemed the
only way to rediscover the bone-fide course. At this stage back pains to the fore
as stiles become hurdles to endure. Searing pain in heels and ankles where wear
and tear has dissolved ligaments to expose crunching bones. The day ends exhausted
with a sloping gait evidence of a deficiency in liquids, sugars and electrolytes.
An arduous day soothed by a greedy gobble of pop and chocolate.
A week later, replenished and determined I have returned to Todmorden to clamber
up the perpendicular vertical to the bridge at Withen Clough. There’s something
about Tod tugging you back in its seductive embrace, reluctant to release. The start
delayed by persistent showers and downpours. The height of summer yet to be scaled
with temperatures hovering below 19c. All of these months are taking on the cloak
of an unpredictable September. Forecasters have decreed sleet and snow in the Autumn.
Back at the crossroads at Withenberry Clough ignore the left turn to Latchford Cottage.
Do not be tempted to the right back down to Todmorden. Proceed straight across up
a narrow path. After 20 metres go through the gate stile on the left which is marked
with the Calderdale Way emblem. Carry on over the next stile in front of you and
up to a gate way with a stile at the side. Straight across through the next stile.
Follow the path to the tree line and over a stile into the edge of the golf course
on your right, passing small red posts. Stoodley Pike becomes visible on the summit
to your right. When you join the road , Hey Head Lane turn left. After about 80
metres turn right up a track directly opposite West Hey Head Farm. The Calderdale
Way footpath post has fallen down and hides in the bushes. Pass by East Hey Head
farm and through three stiles to an overgrown cutting. I sheltered under trees from
Calderdale’s driving rain lashing over the valley. A forlorn figure concealed under
an umbrella relieving myself up against a trunk. Stoodley Pike disappears in the
mist. Proceed straight over the hummocks of Law Hill. The paths are migrating into
rushing rivers. Over the top and down to two stiles each side of a grassy lane.
Carry on by the edge of the field alongside Killup Farm. You are supposed to sight
the tower of Cross Stone Church below on the right. A mullion church built in 1835,
financed by the French government in reparation for the Napoleon War. A time when
the vanquished rewarded the victors. It is now closed as a consequence of land slip.
Continue beyond the farm to the next stile marked Calderdale Way. As the wind rattles
over the moors the sheep stop and stare. They cannot see many humans out here. Cross
the overgrown lane and through the next stile ahead. Follow the path into the Clough
across the waterfall stream and after 20 metres turn left uphill in the direction
of the yellow arrows. Proceed round the boundary fence of Higher Birks Farm and
follow direction arrows up the derelict wall on the left. At the end of the wall
bear left and then right as guided by arrows on wooden posts. Great Rock is not
yet in sight as claimed in the guide. It is directly in front of you but shrouded
by trees.
Progress through 2 stiles on to a walled lane. Spirits are lifted as sunshine highlights
the valley below as you stroll on the edge of the crater. You can be reinvigorated
by reaching the plateau and levelled walking. As you enter the road turn left. After
20 metres turn right at the junction and down to Great Rock. They pick berries here
don’t they?
Immediately before Great Rock turn left on to a grassy track to Staups Moor. There
is a marker painted on the rock and a foot post hidden in the undergrowth. Continue
through the gate stile with the Calderdale Way sign on the post. Keeping the wall
on your right follow the path down to a ladder stile. There is not much sign of
life here. You see the occasional Cessna whirling on the thermals. I assume they
will have notices of storms approaching.
Descend the steep path to the road below and cross Hippins Bridge. Immediately after
the bridge turn right where there is a footpath sign for the Calderdale Way into
a walled track with a clough down below on your right. Follow the path past Hippins
House, a millstone grit mullioned house date stoned 1650. Continue through farm
buildings to a stone pillar stile. The path accompanies a line of electricity poles
above you. Proceed through 2 stiles by Apple Tree Farm. Clearing several wooden
stiles cross the field to a gate stile marked Calderdale Way. The path leads to
Badger Lane at Blackshaw Edge, a remote Pennine village of less than one thousand
inhabitants.
The post office seems to have been replaced by Birch Cottage. As you enter Badger
Lane turn right and after five metres go through a gate stile on the opposite side
of the road. Follow the flagged path which can be hidden partially by grass. The
path continues over the crest of the hill crossing down over fields and several
wooden stiles to an enclosed walled pathway, Bow Lane. A toiling farmer brushes
aside my complaints of another torrential interlude, “it never gets ugly out here”.
Carry on down to Shaw Bottom past a house on your right to an access road. Turn
right following Calderdale Way arrow at the junction. Continue as it becomes a rough
track with River Calder and Hudson Mill down below on the left. Proceed along the
path avoiding the first direction arrow on the Pennine Way footpath post. It is
only the second occasion we encounter the Pennine Way. Turn left down steps to Hebble
Hole Bridge. An ancient clapper footbridge constructed with four great stone slabs
over Calder Water. A popular picnic spot which outlaws campers.
Cross the bridge and turn right on the flagged Pannierman’s Way rising to a fork.
Go left on flags carrying straight on following the Calderdale Way sign; spurn the
steps for the Pennine Way on your left. Carry on above Foster Wood ignoring the
footpath sign and gate stile on the left leading over the hill. Keep on the causeway
at the top side of the wood. Proceed as the arrow post and sign point you over a
stile and through a gate stile into a field. Keep to the causeway running along
several fields with woods on your right as it becomes an unmarked path. In front
of you is Heptonstall Church clasped precariously on the promontory. Further along
you can grasp how the jigsaw of Heptonstall and Hebden Bridge fit together. Bear
left up a walled track as the Calderdale Way sign and arrow directs you. At the
junction turn right as indicated by the Calderdale Way footpath sign. Walk behind
the cottages, over a stone stile and along a causey. Over the next stile several
tracks converge. There are no signs or arrows to discover the correct route. After
much vacillation and consultation with fellow ramblers decided to proceed straight
down the wide walled path towards the Clough.
After about 150 metres make sure you keep to the top path, not down to the right.
Coming to a tarmac road where there is a Calderdale Way sign proceed uphill. Somewhere
round here is Lumb Bank House, residence of Ted Hughes. After the electricity post
go through a gap in the wall. There is a footpath post signed towards Heptonstall.
Follow the path through Eaves Wood. Clambering over rocks look out for a faded Calderdale
Way foot post encouraging you to stick to the high path until you reach the level
path at the top of the woods with a wall on your left. It opens up for a panorama
of the village and Hebden Bridge below on your right. You can now observe Stoodley
Pike from the other side. Looking back you can see the remarkable setting for Lumb
Bank House whittled out of the woods. He must have had a lot of money. I can compose
poetry but not like that.
You are on the crest of giant boulders. The path is joined by steps leading down
the edge of the ridge. Turn left as shown by the Calderdale Way sign painted into
the walled path. Walk on towards the Victorian Parish Church of Heptonstall. Go
round the church passing the Chantry House on the left, a haunted house used to
store bodies. After 10 metres ascend the stone steps on your left to the churchyard
where the remains of 100,000 souls are buried. The consecrated ground shared with
the shell of the St Thomas a’ Becket church dating from the C13th .You can find
King David Hartley’s grave between the two churches.
Heptonstall is an ancient hilltop village 850 feet up defended on three sides by
steep slopes. A preserved village once an important centre of handloom weaving.
The old grammar school converted to a museum displays the history and artefacts.
Proceed into Towngate by the Cloth Hall right into the cobbled streets of Heptonstall
and past Northgate which marks the end of the day’s route.
The path down to Hebden Bridge is steep and straining on calves and knees. Hanging
on to the rails, slipping down damp moss cobbles threatens to embarrass.
Hebden Bridge is worth the exploration. Famous as the trouser town it has matured
into a bohemian arts and crafts retreat. Voted the fourth quirkiest place in the
world. Described as the lesbian capital of Britain where you can suckle on soya
based latte and vegan pate in a bubble of compatriots. Characterised by double decker
housing packed in stages up the surrounding slopes. Once the habitat and workshop
of domestic weavers. Now the indigenous inhabitants capitalised their resources
and abandoned for the marauding off – cummdens. It remains an attractive tourist
destination rich in industrial architecture and Neolithic landscapes.